Snake hooks come in a variety of sizes, colors and shapes and range in price from 30 to 200 dollars. I personally do not like spending that much money on a hook. I have found an easy and economical way to produce the same results without the cost.  All you need is an old golf club and a paint roller. If you can find a golfer most have an unused golf club somewhere. If not you can pick one up at a pawn shop for next to nothing. Then go to your local Home Improvement Warehouse and buy a paint roller.

Cut the head of the golf club off about 3 inches from the hozzle (where the club head meets the shaft). Dismantle the paint roller including the handle. Then just place the shaft of the paint roller (where the handle was) and insert onto the golf club.  You may also want to use some strong adhesive if the paint roller does not snugly fit into the golf club. JB weld works really well.  You will also want to use some electrical tape to wrap around any areas that may scratch your snake.

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There are numerous ways to heat your reptile cage. The best way to ensure that you snake is kept warm is to use an overhead ceramic bulb. This is a constant source of heat that emits no light ensuring that your snake can stay warm while still giving it the “nighttime” it needs. Using a high watt light bulb will surely give your snake the heat it needs but will not be able to be turned off at night. Your heat source should also be kept to one side of the cage as your snake will regulate their own body temperature by moving to different sides of the cage. This also remains true if you are using an under tank heater in a glass aquarium. Do not put them in the middle or on both sides of the tank.

A basking spot should also be available to your snake. This can be achieved by either buying a reptile cage that has an elevated shelf or by a piece of driftwood placed directly under the heat source. This will allow your snake to climb on the wood or shelf and get extra close to the heat if it so desires.

A climbing accessory should be added for your snake to get some excersize. Snakes in the wild climb quite often and like to feel like they are at home. A climbing accessory will achieve this. Be careful however which type of wood you use. I do not recommend going into your woods, picking up a stick or log and placing it in your cage. Driftwood is the way to go. There is no bark for insets to hide under and it is much easier to clean. To prepare your driftwood, soak it in bleach and water solution for a couple of hours, rinse and dry.

A water bowl should be placed in the cage that is large enough for your snake to soak in and have a wide enough base so that it can not tip over as your snake enters or exits. The water bowl should be kept fresh and clean at all times. Water bowls also serve a second function; they help control the humidity in your cage. If your humidity is too low you should place the water bowl closer to the heat source. If your humidity is too high, move the bowl away from the heat.

Hiding spots are also an important part of your snake cage set up. Snakes are solitude by nature and can often become stressed if there is no place for it to be “by itself”. A hiding spot however should only be placed in your cage after your snake has adapted itself to you and its surroundings. If your snake has a hiding spot upon arrival at your home it will never get used to people walking by the cage or just the presence of humans in general. Wait a few weeks for your snake to adapt to its surroundings and being handled before placing the hiding spot in the cage.

Finally you will have to add a bedding or “substrate” to the bottom of your cage. There are many types you can use…anything from newspaper to actual reptile bedding. In my opinion Cypress Mulch is the way to go. Newspaper does not look good at all and reptile bedding is very expensive. Cypress mulch looks good and is very inexpensive and is what I use for all my snakes.

While there is much more to owning a snake setting up a suitable snake cage is a great first step. Read more articles on this website such as handling reptiles, tips for feeding your snake, safety tips and commonly asked questions to familiarize yourself with all there is to know about owning a snake as a pet.

But let’s talk about the first and most important function first. All animals need water to survive and reptiles are no different. A FRESH bowl of water should be available at all times.  Your retiles can not tell you when they are thirsty, they don’t pant like dogs so keeping a FRESH bowl of water at all times is paramount. By fresh I mean changed regularly. You must clean the bowl every time you change the water as well. Best way to achieve this is to place the bowl in a bleach and water solution (10% bleach, 90% water will be fine) let it soak then rinse it well before placing back in cage.  Depending on the size of your reptile will determine the size of the bowl you need. Ensure that your reptile can not turn the bowl over while trying to get a drink.  

The second function is for bathing. When you notice that your snake is going into shed (blue, cloudy eyes) a larger and separate water source should be placed in the cage. This bowl should be large enough for your snake to completely submerge itself under water. This assists the snake in softening its skin making it easier to shed. When you snake does not shed in a full piece it is very uncomfortable for them and they will remain agitated, making it hard to handle, until the next time it sheds.

The third and final function your water bowl will serve is to assist in humidity fluctuation. You can use your bowl to increase of decrease your humidity by placing the bowl in different areas of the cage. For example if your cage is too humid you can move the water bowl away from the heat source into a cooler part of the cage. And if your cage is not humid enough you can place the bowl right next to the heat source.

There are many different types of bowls; you can use a Tupperware bowl if you see fit, just ensures that it will serve the function you will need it to.

Handling your pet reptile is the most important and enjoyable task you need to complete on a daily basis and it is also the most common thing done incorrectly. You may think that handling a snake or lizard will just come naturally but let’s be honest. It is not natural and it is not a common occurrence! In fact, it can be downright scary the first few times you do it. But don’t let this deter you from considering a reptile as a pet. The following is a quick how-to guide for handling reptiles and remember the more you do it the more comfortable you and your pet will be. 

    The first thing you need to know is the warning signs. Warning signs let you know that either your reptile does not want to be handled or you are doing something wrong which is hurting or making your reptile feel threatened. Reptiles can not bark, growl, meow or yelp to let you know it is hurt. All they have is body posture and hissing. And yes I said hurt. A lot of people think that you can’t hurt a reptile, but just like all animals they do “feel”. Warning sign include but are not limited to: 

• Deep breathing to where you can see the body size increase
• Hissing
• Over-activeness (reptiles that are normally very docile will move or squirm a lot)
• Lizards claw you and will not stop trying to get away
• Lizards thrashing and swinging their tail
•  Snakes wrapping their bodies around your arm, leg or neck (depending on how you are holding it) and squeezing
•  Snakes coiling into an S shape
•  Snakes jerking their body as soon as you touch them

    Second, you should know what the reptile knows. Contrary to popular belief snakes and other reptiles DO get to know their primary caretaker and are always going to trust that person the most, especially when out of their Reptile Cage or in situations that they are not used to such as being handled by new people or around other animals. If you are anything like me, I bring my reptiles to my kid’s school once a year for show and tell. This is extremely stressful for the snakes; new smells, new environment and a lot of unknown people can cause even with the most docile of snakes to lash out. 

    Third and most important is the basic do’s and don’ts of handling reptiles. 

Do: 

• Handle them as often as possible
• Support them at all times (their entire body)
• Always move slowly and calmly
• Be aware of your surroundings as people coming up behind you may startle them
• Let them get comfortable on you
• Wash your hands before and after handling and after cleaning their enclosures 

Don’t: 

• Handle large snakes such as Burmese Pythons, Reticulated Pythons or Red Tail Boas by yourself
• Hold the reptiles by the tail: lizards tails will break off and snakes do not feel secure and will look for something to latch on to (probably your hand)
• Turn the upside down
• Tease them
• Smell like prey
• Make fast and jerky motions
•  Ever make someone hold the reptile that doesn’t want to 

    There is a lot to say for experience and every reptile is different just like dogs, cats and humans. They will all like different things. You will learn what your reptile likes and more importantly what they don’t like. This may (probably) be learned the hard way by a little nip but don’t worry, your reptile is not intentionally trying to harm you. They can’t say “hey I don’t like that will you please stop?” Usually the bite will leave nothing more than a few scratches. One thing you can be sure of, if you are going to own and raise exotic pets you will at some point be bitten. Just remember stay calm and don’t blame the reptile. If you have any questions that have not been answered please contact me or leave a comment on this page.

1. Know what kind of snake you are about to handle and their temperament.

You should never walk in to a pet store and handle a snake without first talking to the owner and learning about the temperament, how often it has been handled and if there have been any incidents in the past.  Also I would recommend that you ask the owner to remove the snake from it’s cage for you so you can judge the temperament while he/she is handling.

2. Avoid handling snakes while in shed

Most snakes do not like to be handled while they are shedding. Their eyes glaze over while in shed and they do not have the ability to see properly. Their skin/scales are irritated and their overall mood is not good. Many bites come from trying to handle a snake while in shed.

3. Keep your snake well fed

Good rule of thumb; A hungry snake is a “nippy” snake

4. Do NOT feed your snake in the same environment it lives.

If your snake gets used to the cage opening and a rat being dropped in it will associate the cage opening with feeding time and will often snap at you. I recommend feeding in a large Rubbermaid storage bin. This will allow you to then carry the bin to place the snake back into its cage.

5. Wash your hands before handling a snake.

Many times after handling food for your snake (rats, mice ext.) the odor remains on your hands. Also petting other animals such as dogs, cats and birds leaves an odor that can be mistaken by your snake for food and an accidental bite may occur.

6. Don’t ignore the warning signs

If a dog was growling at you would you begin to pet and play with it? NO! If a snake is hissing at you and jerking its body when you touch it, it does not want to be handled so don’t do it.

7. If possible use a front load habitat.

In my experiences with snakes most bites come when trying to remove your snake from a habitat from the top. This is intimidating to your snake and they feel threatened, that threat results in a bite. I recommend that you look into purchasing a Reptile Cage  that is first big enough for your snake, and has access through the front.

8. Use snake hook for large snakes

Snakes such as Burmese Pythons and Reticulated Pythons warrant the use of a snake hook. It is a good idea to use a snake hook to remove the snake from the habitat then you can handle yourself.

9. Avoid the head

Snakes do not like to be touched on the head. Avoid holding by the head and letting your snake put its head by yours. The warm breath that comes from you mouth or nose could trigger a bite.

10. If bit….

Remain calm, most bites are quick and will only leave a few scratches. If the snake continues to strike (very rare) attempt to grab the snake by the neck and place back in its habitat. If the snake bites and does not let go do not pull. This will injure you and your snake more. Hold the snakes head under warm water usually 5 to 10 minutes and it will let go. Most snake bites are less painful than a cat scratch or a dog bite, but much more traumatic as it happens so quickly.

Snakes are a lot of fun and can make great pets if the proper care is given and the proper knowledge is obtained. Following these safety tips will help you achieve all you want to achieve by owning a snake. Read more about the rewards of owning snakes at http://www.notsoboringlife.com/hobbies/get-a-pet-snake/

The most effective way is baking, but this is also the most difficult way due to the size of the driftwood you will probably want in a large enclosure. Most ovens are not big enough. For small pieces though I recommend baking due to the fact that the risk of any insects surviving 350 degrees for 2 hours or so is slim to none. This is especially important for insect eaters such as Bearded Dragons. Eating wild insects will surely lead to an unhealthy “beardie”. You must be careful when baking your wood; do not leave the house and check it often. If there are leaves or other small twigs that fall off your piece of driftwood you run the risk of fire.

The other and most used method is the water and bleach solution soaking trick. This is a time consuming but very effective method to clean your wood. Fill your bath tub up with warm water while mixing in a gallon of bleach. Allow your wood to soak for about 4 hours making sure that you turn the wood over ensuring that all sides of the wood has had ample time to soak. Rinse thoroughly and allow to dry in the sun until completely dry. If you see any remaining insect repeat the first step by placing back in the water and bleach solution. If not repeat the rinse and dry step until you can put your nose to the wood and no longer smell the bleach.

Now you are ready!!! Put the wood I your cage and watch your Snake/Lizard begin to enjoy their enclosure and life even more.

There are numerous locations you can find driftwood and it is also a fun day trip for the family. However if you don’t want to go through the trouble I have many pieces large and small I can sell you. Contact me and let me know what you are looking for and I probably have it or can get it at a fraction of the cost you will find it on EBay or other similar websites.

2. Never feed your snake prey you find in the wild (i.e. rats and mice)

3. Always wash your hand after hadling prey and before handling your snake.

4. If feeding live prey be aware of the potential for bites and scratches. Scarring may occur.

5. Feeding pre-killed is the safest way to feed your snake. Buy live prey and “knock it out” prior to feeding.

6. After moving snakes to a new housing facility allow two weeks to acclimate before feeding.

7. Feed young snakes once a week, as your snake ages you may cut back to two or three times monthly.

8. Good Rule of thumb…Prey should be as big as the snake is wide at it’s widest point.

9. Handle your snake as little as possible for the 24 hours after feeding. Handling could cause digestion problems including regurgitation.

10. When feeding large snakes it is a good idea to have a second person on hand in case of emergency.